At low boost say 1250 rpm@ 15mg the figure is 55 I should lower it to 45, this is opening yes?
_

Zaccyboy wrote:At low boost say 1250 rpm@ 15mg the figure is 55 I should lower it to 45, this is opening yes?
_

I think on VW cars is vice-versa than my bmw. Values from High fuel and high rpm(right-down corner) means OPEN. Well if you have 70 80 at 4500 rpm and 50 mg , (last line and last column), that means low valeus means closed and high values means open.
Well you increase low values to open vanes.
At my bmw i have 80 90 in low area ~10 20 mg and low rpm and 20 30 at 4500 and 50 mg , that means 20 30 means open and 80 90 closed. I did these tests by flat map to value 10 and look at VNT ACTUATOR, is fully open.
If you are not sure about that, make map to 10 and one time to 90 and look in idle at vnt, you`ll see how is open and closed but in full load and high rpm values are for OPEN.

Well NOT BOOST means ~480 mg air ok ? with 480 mg air you can burn 20 mg fuel clean...well theoretically from 0 to 20 mg the requested boot can be 1000 mbar(no boost) , but is better to put a little bit more air ..you can follow 5-10 mg 1000 mbar , at 15 put 1100 and at 20 put 1200. Try to dont low too much boost under ~1700 rpm because of pedal responsivity.
I made tons of tests and hundred of writes in my ecu to understand how the fuck EGR and economy works. I can run with 4 liters at 100km outside with legal speed 80 90 km/h and i have 2.0 liters engine 170 hp.
In the city you cant do anything for economy..thats it, you need to push pedal more to get speed in first gears, i have ~8 liters at 100 km, but for a strong 2.0 diesel its fine to have 6 7 liters mixt

Egr blocking is for cleaner engine and better responsivity..and of course less work for turbo while cruising and economy better with 1 liter at 2.0 liter..maybe on 1.9 TDI ALH you will not feel too much economy because that engine is already economical.

juice wrote:I think on VW cars is vice-versa than my bmw.

That's right, VW's have a reversed N75 map.

Cheers Juice, that helps a lot. There goes my weekend on the xBox!

Thanks juice you are a star. Thanks very much!

Thanks :) Give a try after blocking EGR to open turbo vanes , lower boost a bit and add 1 degree maybe or keep it stock to SOI, awesome economy and better driveability. Newer cars guys are 50% constructed for emissions...a lot of compromises for emissions, fuck new cars.

lol f*** new cars! Iam remapping now lol!

Visit also my website fom my profile when you click my user to learn more shit about tuning :)

juice wrote:fuck new cars.

Actually one day you'll realise new cars are much better prepared for much larger power gains than euro3 cars. 1.7 bar stock turbo boost is something you can only wish having at massively tuned euro3 cars (with 0.9 bar stock turbo boost and 1.5 bar MAP sensor). 1800 bars ori? Dream it with 1st generation Bosch (alfa, fiat, bmw, renault, mercedes etc - all 1350 bar and 1500 bar sensor). All you have to do is to replace injector nozzles.

But there is something - you need the right equipment to flash a last generation ECU. And LOTS of knowledge to fully understand its ECU dump. But it's not the car's fault. :mrgreen:

Yep, you're right zok, even injection preesure has more than 1500 bar, not like old systems ~1000 bar.
Anyway if i take example my engine 2.0 diesel 136 hp bmw 320d year 2001 and a friend who put some money into it.
- Hibrid turbo which keeps constant 2800 mbar absolute pressure with MAP sensor from facelit and liniarized map.
- Intercooler XXL , kevlar performance clutch and single mass flywheel
- Bigger nozzles
On dyno now he has 202 hp but there is larg window for more power.
At my car with 67 mg of fuel and 2350 mbar i`m saying that i have 170 hp without both catalytic converter, but maybe i`m wrong and when i put the car on dyno maybe i dont have 160 hp :)
I`m saying about newer cars because they have too much sensors and the bad part..a lot of compromises only for emissions..DPF, start of injection for sure fixed for co2, adjustment of engine distribution and intake/out valve..egr, bluemotion chenical substance and so on..too many shits to bring the car euro 4 5..lambda again another mixture shit.
At my car for example i have 3-4 sensors...MAF, MAP , crankshaft sensor..oil sensor..and thats it..mechanical injectors, no lambda, no nothing..just straight pipe from engine to out. No worries for dpf stuck or another additional worries:)
I have some friends who sold VW golf5 and bought golf4 for tuning, and they are pro mechanics not just simple guys.
My ideal car with a great economy, nice torque and nice power is bmw e46 330d , 3.0 L6 engine 204 hp stock. With just a remap and stock hardware can go to 270 280 hp and 550 nm torque, awesome power for daily driving :D