BBTuning wrote:Hi mate. Ktag doesnt let you read this via drop pins?
d.dimitrov wrote:BBTuning wrote:Hi mate. Ktag doesnt let you read this via drop pins?
Unfortunately no. There is no such ECU model to select. When I got my Ktag I also bought all the adapters available.
If there is an option to read it through one of those by selecting a different type of ECU that would be great.
d.dimitrov wrote:I was hoping to do it without unsoldering anything. I've got no experience with a soldering iron but I guess since I have two practice ECUs I can give it a try . I've ordered a TL866II programmer. It should be here in the next 10 days. Once I try it out I'll share the results.
Thanks for the advice.
d.dimitrov wrote:Thanks for the advice!
I ordered the whole kit with 54 different connectors and this one is one of them.
I did watch some videos on how to remove the chip and saw that it was with hot air. It looks pretty easy.
However putting it back on the board is gonna be the challenge and from what I've seen most people do use a soldering iron.
I did see one that just placed the chip in the correct place and then used the hot air but it seems like a good way to get a lot of "dry joints" or however they are called.
I am even thinking about adding a socket like one bloke I saw for easier access later on.
d.dimitrov wrote:Man you're the best!
I ordered a "GORDAK 952V" and will try to use only the hot air.
And do you have any suggestions or removing the "lacquer". So far I found three ways of doing it:
1. Just try and scrape it off (seems a bit dangerous, might damage the board)
2. Use a solvent (lacquer thinner/paint remover)
3. Use the hot air to soften it and than scrape it off.
Which of those would be less likely to damage the board?
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