Hi, I have this car for 3 years and the previous owner stated that the car has 200hp. This year I got into remapping and decided to see what's inside the ecu.

The archive includes an original file found on the Internet, the tuned file by unknown tuner (3 years and car runs ok), the tuned file made by me (should get around 215hp and 420Nm).

The first tuner kept the EGR and DPF on and raised TL up to 390Nm, raised boost from 55 to 70 mg/cyc up to 2750mbar absolute pressure, stock boost is 2600 (don't know why, he just raised the AFR, no extrapolation of the axis whatsoever). Surprisingly, no maps are decalibrated. Kept 1st gear TL lower than 390. Logging the car, I've got max boost of ~2650 mbar, no boost spikes, unknown IQ values, from my calculations from Nm2Iq it's around 64mg/cyc. He also lowered Lambda/Smoke maps.

My file contains egr off by 0ing 2 hysteresis maps, popcorn limiter at 4700 rpm with 1rpm gap and SVRL 4700, extrapolated Nm2Iq up to 470Nm, Duration map up to 95mm^3, stocked boost map and extrapolated up to 78mg/cyc with 2700mbar max. SVBL 2800. Raised TL by gear and similar limits. Main TL raised up to 450Nm. I didn't touched Lambda/Smoke limiter maps, they go around 15-16AFR@lastColumns. N75 are stock, they are calibrated up to 68mg/cyc.

Logged the car and pulls fine, no boost spikes, little smoke in low revs. IAT is spiking pretty fast up to 55 deg C, released the throttle there.

The fun part begins when I took off my exhaust to see if the DPF was still on because last regenerations were like 7k km ago and I suspected that it was physically removed. Pulled the endoscope through the dpf and I saw the element with 3 large black spots (drilled or melt?). I've ordered an empty dpf case to change it.
My question is what solutions do you recommend to delete it from the ecu? Should I use DaVinci, ADS or MTX? I analyzed the DaVinci solution and it deleted bunch of DTC codes and following the damos, it removed some s**t related to battery and brakes??? I know the single switch isn't enough. Also, what's the full procedure? tell ecu that i've replaced the dpf, then remove dpf physically, then flash new file?

Update: deleted error codes, reset dpf soot content with ISTA, clear codes again, flash file with dpf off (MTX solution with DTCs off, no EGT/Pressure sensors). Car runs ok, no postinjection/white smoke/loss of power. I will make the popcorn at ~4600 with retarded SOI, i was thinking about 10deg BTDC because the turbo is stock and i don't want to burn the exhaust valves.

https://youtube.com/shorts/qTZsanqu_O0

I've made some tests with hardcut @ 4600 TL method only (no svrl) and it sounds fine with retarded SOI for 2500rpm, ~9-11deg btdc.

Also, i have seen on yt something called deep idle mod, where the vanes are set closed at idle to create a more aggressive sound. Tested it and it's not a big difference imo, maybe i need to remove the rear silencer. What it's interesting is when the rpm go from let's say 2000rpm to 800, the closing vanes make a whistle, similar to "owl" sound from VAGs. From what I've read, this mod may reduce the sticking vanes because they're getting full range of movement.

Any ideas if I'll close the vanes at 0mg/str at any rpm? I'm thinking about potential turbo lag if I realease the pedal and then suddenly press it again.

To anyone with this engine at least (never tried on others), driving at cruising speed with no boost and vanes wide open gives 0 improvement regarding fuel economy. I've logged the car with TestO and the injected quantity was almost the same at 60, 80, 100 and 120 km/h (with cruise control on). at 60 i saw some minor improvement.

I request 990mbar of boost and 10% actuator up to 25mg/strk and 2250rpm. IMO it doesn't worth it also because now the car has huge turbo lag.